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3rd February 2005 |
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Tech: Norton Commando Brakes It started with a simple post about Norton Commando brakes and ended up keeping the message board buzzing for days. NVNL shares what he's learned so far... First things first, my Mark3 Commando front brake is improved rather than sorted. This is a summary of the show so far. I have consulted widely and made my choices based partly on my experience with my much loved, long owned T140ES which now has a most acceptable front stopper comprising two standard Meriden discs, two Grimeca single piston calipers, four disc pads of some unknown sort, braided hoses, the original Meriden master cylinder and a dog-leg lever from Harwoods of Richmond (whom God preserve).
Anyway the Mark3 Commando I got for Christmas came with an RGM 12" drilled floating disc, a Grimeca single piston caliper, a pair of Bonneville disc pads which not only fouled the pins at the rotor's hub but also failed to wipe the outer quarter inch of the braking surface, Goodrich hoses and a factory standard master cylinder and lever.
I fitted a Meriden spec. master cylinder with dog-leg lever from TMS, and changed the brake fluid again (just showing off). After a hundred miles or so the disc has been "skimmed in service" and I'll fit the new NLM DP500 pads at the weekend.
I haven't ruled out the twin disc option, but my wallet is reticent. Unless I can train myself to start using the back brake occasionally I'll need to fit a front brake light switch. Thanks to everyone on the Board who helped out. Right that's the who, how, why, what and when of the work in progress. I've got 'flu and I'm going back to bed. Hope this helps. ***************** And then this arrived, which looks useful if a little scientific: Looking at the Vintage Brake web page I realised that I was no longer confident about classifying wheel or slave cylinders by the number of pistons they contain so I took some advice from An Expert. It has always seemed to me that slave cylinder pistons (and pads) are provided in pairs that move more-or-less together to "bite" on the moving disc with a view to slowing it down. Not so. Some brakes have pairs of pads only one of which is moved by a single piston, the other coming into play as the caliper moves on its hinge. Frank W tells me this and I know it to be true because I've had bikes with cable operated disc brakes, however I have been quite successful at expunging this from my memory.
Grip is at the root of this as far as I'm concerned. The grip I use to activate the handlebar lever; the grip the braking device exerts on the front wheel and the harmonious grip the front tyre and the road surface arrange for themselves. As a callow and excitable youth my wrists and elbows suffered many affronts on and off the rugby field, with the result that my own ability to exert fierce finger pressure on a front brake lever can be unpredictable. I can reliably do soft squeezes one hundred times out of one hundred, so my bikes are adjusted to suit.
In those years I developed the habit of working the twist grip with my thumb and forefinger while resting fingers two and three on the lever.
Short version - light fingered braking good, ham fisted braking bad. See also Michael Atherton on "Batting With Soft Hands". Now, how about showing your appreciation via the donate page? |
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